Saturday 25 May 2013

Soon We'll all be Gone...

But sitting on the verge of tears does not become my twenty-two years!
Hilarious.

Not updated this for a few days, so I thought I'd better knuckle down and get on top of it. At the moment I'm about 40kms from the centre of Moscow, the furthest east I will go (on this trip ;)).

The day after I left климова heading for осташков. The roads were a sandy, rutted mess for the first 20kms. Virtually impossible to ride at speed especially with panniers. Eventually I hit tarmac at a place called свапуша. Now I had a decision to make. On the 'designated route' I was trying to complete it showed a 40km detour, 20km there, 20km back, to the source of the river Volga and a monastry. Somebody had described the road as ridable, and it was ridable, if you were riding in maybe a four wheel drive vehicle or a tank.    

So 20kms of extremely loose dirt roads and two hours later;
I think the face says it all, just the thought of that road sends shivers down my spine. The Volga river is the longest river in Europe. Its very important in Russian culture and is often called Volga-Matushka (Mother Volga).
This is me at the source, c'mon chump crack a smile!
 By this point I'd realised it was going to be a long day.
I turned the bike around and headed back down the same road, I think I'd rather forget the journey back to tarmac. This picture gives you an idea of the road surface.
 Just loose, dry sand.
Half way down the road on the return trip I met a police car sliding sideways down the track! He'd taken a corner a bit too quick!
 When I got back to the main road it was still 50kms to осташков, and it was raining.
Trying to put on a brave face.
It was 8pm by the time I arrived. I decided to have a few beers at the hotel that night, naturally a few turned into six and a sore head in the morning.

I woke up in the morning feeling rough as sin. I think an 80 mile bike ride to торжок was the last thing I wanted to do but like a good boy I soldiered on, stopping halfway for a mammoth portion of chips and four sausage rolls.

I had to kick this little shit to get him to stop chasing me. For some reason dogs around here are obsessed with bicycles, probably because they don't see them very often. торжок was a pretty cool place, an ancient town where there was a big battle between the Mongols and the Russians many years ago.


Some cool old buildings and architecture. I went to a little cafe and had a bowel of Borsch (traditional Russian soup) and a potato meat cake thing for tea, very nice. After that it was time for bed. I don't think I've ever been so relieved to get to bed to be honest.

The next day I'd decided I was going to ride along the main road to тверь to get my bike fixed. I'd heard horror stories about the main road, how it was extremely dangerous for cyclists, tonnes of traffic, etc. etc. Personally I found it OK.
Only 209! As you can see the weather was appalling. 
Hahaha! I got to тверь at about 1'o'clock, found the bike shop thanks to a friendly local. The guy had the cassette changed, rear brake fixed and rear wheel re-trued within the hour. Can't grumble at that. I spent ages looking for a place to stay in тверь, everywhere was either too expensive, or fully booked. Eventually I found somewhere to stay, the only problem was the lady at reception said I didn't have enough paperwork with my passport! Apparently I needed to have it registered every night (Bullshit!).

Thankfully there was a guy in reception who spoke English, so he acted as a translator and helped sort it all out. The guys name was Nicolay and after the little incident at reception he asked me if I would like a tour of the town. Top man!
The banks of the river Volga in тверь. One is named after a writer and one is named after a soldier. There are statues of the men on either side of the river. After a bit of a history lesson we sat down for some food.
Ahh a pack of camels, bought in тверь for the pricey sum of £1.20. Cheers for the food pal and I hope you have many good adventures on your bike and take alot of fantastic photos!

Back at the hotel I hit the sack pretty sharpish, slept like a log again but up for half seven the next morning for what would be an 'interesting' day. The target was Kohakobo and it honestly didn't look too far on the map. 'Reckon I'll be there by 2pm' I thought, wishful thinking. I accidently met the group at this river crossing. When the going gets tough...
For the glory of Great Britain!

“If you're going through hell, keep going.” - Winston Churchill

It rained and rained and rained that day, I was soaked to the bone. Not a nice experience, when I got to the hotel I met with the group again. Someone asked me if I had ever tried Russian vodka, I said no. To be honest it would be plain rude to go to Russia and not try vodka...
 Look at that poor innocent boy, unaware of whats to come. Now I had maybe four shots of vodka and two shots of some Ukranian drink and I was a sniff of liquor away from spending the night rolling about in my own vomit, lethal stuff.
 Haha, look at the eyes! Again I slept incredibly well that night!
Yesterday was a long one, I rode from Kohakobo to the outskirts of Moscow, where I am now. The dirt roads had become mud roads after a night of heavy rain, not great for riding a fully loaded bike on slick tyres.
The worst thing about Russia? Mosquitos. I'd read about them back home but I never thought that it would be as bad as it is. Any patch of skin thats not covered by clothing or sprayed with repellent is fair game for them. When I came out of the river crossing in the video I took my sweater off cause It was soaking and within seconds there were half a dozen Mosquitos on my shoulder, it gets pretty annoying. Thankfully you are safe when you're riding, they don't seem to like moving targets...

This was yesterdays mad stunt. Crossing a bridge that looked like something out of Indiana Jones.
So last night I rode into Moscow. More torrential rain, thunder and lightning. Quite fun actually! Saw a few stray dogs playing by the side of the road. 
Unfortunatly I won't see the group again. I'm staying here today and tonight while the group rides into the centre for 'official business'. Feel a bit gutted to be leaving this lot, although we didn't ride together I met them quite a few times on the road and bumped into them at a few of the hotels. For the first few days I was 'Ralph the English spy' but by the end of the trip I was 'Ivan', just gotta wait for my Russian passport to come through!

There's a real sense of 'lifes to short' with these guys, as there is with most of the Russians I've met, and I like it. I think this comes from experiencing real hardship first hand and I think we Brits could learn a thing or two about our attitude towards others from this lot.

Anyway I'll be staying here today sorting kit out, washing clothes and generally chilling out so feel free to drop us an e-mail and I'll write back. Its cheaper than texting.

So long...


“It’s very difficult to follow our dreams, but it’s even more difficult to forget them.”






 

7 comments:

  1. Amazing achievement Ralph - you were toasted by us oldies at the Shoes last night! Take care and look forward to hearing your stories on your return. JB

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  2. Thanks, when I get to a place with better internet I'll reply to the e-mail. Its quite a funny situation...

    Should be back in a month and a bit anyway.

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  3. Well done mate! Like your dad said, amazing achievement. The video of you falling in the lake has been a huge highlight today. You go in like a sack of shit boy!

    Anyway, hope you've seen the new post with all the pictures of Amsterdam on.

    Speaking of which, my annual leave is July 1st - July 15th will you be back in time or is it best to meet you in Amsterdam if you wait round there? Let me know. Should be on this all day, just need to chase getafix up for his ticket money for tomorrow!

    Drop us a comment back man.

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  4. Haha yeah mate they came out pretty good. Only a couple of pictures turned out shit couple of the street pictures and that picture we tried to get the barman to take numerous times. Shame your face was cut out of the pic with Vanessa but ah well. Epic photo that, just proves that the most far fetched story was actually true!

    Yeah man was thinking about it at work yesterday, we'll meet you at Zeeburg. Will make for a wicked read on the blog. Meet up for an early welcome home party ;). So far it's definitely me and liz coming. Vornys a possibility but he's got himself a mrs now so I dunno if he's 100% in yet. Chubber can come with too if he wants. Obviously Getafix won't be coming (awkward with his ex mrs's best friend there). Getting the train from telf to london, then london to Harwich then ferry to the Hook of Holland then train to Amsterdam. All in all should be about 8-9 hours journey time. Going for a few days so will have time to actually see some of the sights. Gonna camp there (cheaper) plus it'll also work out we'll be in the same area as you. The kayaking looks mint right? Probably won't find me in one but it's an idea for you.

    So you're in Moscow for the remainder of the day, today. PICK ME SOME FAGS UP.

    Let me know what you think to the plans. Like I said I'm on all day...

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  5. 2nd July - 8th July. Should give you plenty of time to get there boy! Saw the cap badges they look pretty mint. You bought anything else? That Nicolay looks like a good chap. You've had no issues at all with the locals then?

    This blog has been epic to say the least mate. Problem is you know you're gonna have to do something else now!

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  6. Hey man I've been loving reading your blog it's been really awesome seeing how you've been getting on. Drop me an e-mail if you get chance samuelscott91@live.co.uk. Need to meet up as soon as your back man :) Speak to you soon, Sam

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    1. Sam, mate got the internet tonight but for some reason can't get e-mail! Reply on here if you want a chat. Hear you and Bayliss are hitting up rock and bowl on Sunday, shoud be good. What you been up to man?

      Yeah we definatly need a meet when I get back, possibly a snowdon trip ;) need to get a picture of the 3 musketeers on top five years on ;).

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